Hip place, old Barolo: Morandi and Borgogno

Although great wines move me, aged Barolo evokes an extraordinary response from within me... a chemistry that I can't quite explain but recognize as profound...

Barolo has the soul and essence of a great wine, if only one is patient enough to wait for it to develop. One of my great wine loves is an aged Barolo from a traditional producer. My favorite producer of all time is Bartolo Mascarello, whom I had the honor to meet before he passed away in 2005. Bartolo Mascarello was one of my most special of all winery visits and despite the language barrier, we seemed to understand each other perfectly. If you see his barbera or dolcetto, take a moment to examine his artwork, as he was a talented and passionate artist. Often, you'll see his signature ladybug. His daughter, Maria-Teresa, faithfully carries his torch. Tonight's wine, Borgogno, is a historic Barolo house located in the same town of Monforte d'Alba in Piedmont, Italy. I was fortunate enough to have been given a tour at Borgogno by Chiara Boschis, daughter of the family and owner of her own excellent label, E.Pira. Chiara talks a mile a minute and is an intelligent and dynamic woman. On my last visit, she was generous enough to give me a bottle of the delicious 1961 Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Classico Riserva.

1971 Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Classico Riserva
Clear, pale brick core with browned edges. Hard to see in this light. Rose petals, subtle tar, mushrooms, licorice, and some aged balsamic, it clearly smells seductive and elegant; a Nebbiolo with age that is ready to drink. I could swirl and smell it all night. Freshness. Silky mouthfeel with an anise touch and more balsamic on the palate. Interesting aged pomegranate taste. Dried and faint cherries. Drink now as it is fully developed.

Grapes undergo a long submerged cap maceration and are aged in large casks called botti, made of Slavonian oak. With time, the massive nebbiolo tannins softens. This bottle was reconditioned library release decanted and with the sediment removed directly from the winery.

Dinner was at Morandi, one of my least favorites of the Keith McNally group, with Balthazar being my favorite. J and I had a good meal of meatballs, squid and roasted veal chop. I've dined here over five times and I've always found the food solid, if not exciting. Service was above average. Scene is always above average to excellent. Mr. McNally has mastered the art of ambiance.

I especially loved that they handed me the VIP number yet again; it is the same number for all sister restaurants. Email me if you would like it.

Morandi
211 Waverly Place
New York, NY 10014
at Charles St.
212-627-7575