Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Milos has the best fresh fish in the city but prices are high and the noise level is even higher












I've always liked Estiatorio Milos and think that it serves the best Greek-style fish in the city. Prices are high and the noise level is even higher: two reasons that I don't frequent it as much as I might given the quality of food and service.

I decided that I was in the mood for John Dory, a white firm yet flaky fish with a bit of creaminess. I feel in love with John Dory in Hvar, Croatia, the best I've had to date. The John Dory here was called St Pierre. C ordered a two-person portion. The fish is sold by weight. It arrived delicately grilled and deboned with capers and lemon on the side. We started with Greek salad and choose grilled zuccini and eggplant to accompany the fish.

To my friend, I gently suggested a Moschofilero (mo-sko-FEEL-ero) or maybe a Santorini white such as Assyrtiko but C was not in the mood for adventure. He suggested a 2005 Pinot Grigio. I dinged it. He suggested and I agreed to the 2007 Abbazia Di Novacella Veltliner (S├╝dtirol - Alto Adige) $60. We both like the wines from Alto Adige and I wanted a clean, elegant, neutral vessel-fermented aromatic white wine. It was good although a bit short on the finish. The color was a bit deeper than I expected at a pale gold as I expected it to be a bit lighter colored based on the varietal, vintage, and place. It had lovely aromas of white pepper and some tropical fruit, indicating a warmer vintage for this typically cool climate. The wine was labeled Veltliner and I was not clear if it was a Frueh Roter Veltliner, different from the Austrian Gruner Veltliner. Likely the former since the winery was founded in 1142 and is one of the oldest wineries in the world.

Service was excellent and the space is very attractive. As I mentioned, the noise level makes it difficult for one to have a civilized conversation yet despite this, the restaurant was packed and lively. I will definitely go back.

Since we were both watching our figures we decided against dessert and instead opted for coffee.

















Estiatorio Milos
125 W. 55th St.
nr. Sixth Ave.
New York, NY 10019
212-245-7400

Estiatorio Milos on Urbanspoon