Tuesday, December 25, 2007

to Gevrey-Chambertin and Pessac-Léognan for Christmas dinner



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Gevrey-Chambertins(GC) are among my favorite wines in the world and definitely one of my favorite red wines from Burgundy. GC is an all red appellation and home to the highest number of grand crus in one appellation in Burgundy. Tonight we started with the 1985 Faiveley Chambertin Clos de Beze.  Like many, I prefer the sites surrounding the Grand Crus and to the southern most portion of Gevrey-Chambertin bordering Morey-Saint-Denis. (See map)

Tasting note:
Clear garnet core fading to the rim; watery rim. Smells fresh. Tobacco, sweet earth, licorice, dried fruits, and smoke on the nose. Tobacco and truffles on the palate. Medium plus length. This wine has a soul. I like how Kermit Lynch once described the appellation: "A Gevrey must not be overly sophisticated. It must always have a touch of rusticity to it to seem real. Some men seem more feminine than others but remain men." My sister, who has a good palate, is a good proxy for the above average wine drinker. She thought the wine smelled like "foot" and was not a fan. I decanted the wine as there seemed to be a fair amount of sediment at the bottom. With good intentions, my dad, seeing that there was wine remaining in the bottle, promptly added the separated sediment back into the decanter.

Of the 9 Grands Crus, I prefer the following three starred sites:
*Chambertin
*Chambertin Clos de Bèze
Chapelle-Chambertin
Charmes-Chambertin
Griottes-Chambertin
*Latricières-Chambertin
Mazis-Chambertin
Mazoyères-Chambertin
Ruchottes-Chambertin

Interested in learning more? A good article on GC is available at Fine Wine Magazine.

I spent additional time with the GC but the rest of my family was ready to move onto something with primary fruit still remaining. Our next wine, the 1998 Haut Brion, was a crowd pleaser. I visited the estate in October this year and was impressed with their every attention to detail.

1998 Haut Brion
Clear ruby core with tawny edges. Closed nose of pencil shavings, minerals, black fruits, and black pepper. Elegant wine with firm and ripe tannins. I was a bit disappointed with the average finish. Wine is 55% merlot. Right bank was better for this vintage although quality Medoc shows well.

Included are pictures from my visit to Château Haut Brion in October 2007.

Merry Christmas!

Love,
Elisa

Mind blowing Sauvage


Rugged and sexy. Robert Michel's Cornas, when patient, gives me incredible pleasure. My reaction with this wine is not explainable. Pure chemistry! His Cornas moves me. I shipped a mixed case of wine here for the holidays (in addition to purchasing some other wines) and this is the wine that I chose to accompany our Christmas eve dinner. I love spending time with this wine and it is good enough that I am indiscriminate where and when I drink it. It is such a bargain for the quality. I crave it. Sad that RM is no longer making wine under his own label but it will be interesting to try the "Le Geynale" from his nephew, Vincent Paris. I believe this changeover commences with the 2007 vintage.

2000 Robert Michel Cornas "Le Geynale". Slightly cloudy black purple color. Coffee, chocolate, meat, pepper, blackberry, leather, and charcoal on the nose with a hint of iodine. One word: Sauvage. I can taste the meat, olives, herbs and black spice on the palate. Glad that I have more in storage. I still prefer the 2000's right now to the tighter 1999 or 2001 vintages. I like the 2004s as well but they need time. I wish that I had a case of the 1991 Cornas. I like the 1990s but they are not in the same league.

Included are pictures from my visit with M. Michel in summer 2007.